Cheryll,
her parents and I just returned from Finland.
Cheryll’s grandparents and great-grandparents were Finnish immigrants to
the Upper Peninsula, so this was an opportunity to not only see the Finnish
countryside, but also to meet some cousins for the first time.
We had a rough start
when we were bumped off our oversold Lufthansa flight from Detroit to
Frankfurt, connecting to Helsinki. It
worked out OK though as we were each provided with $800 travel vouchers and
business class seats on the next day’s flight.
We had only paid $600 for our tickets and the vouchers should cover
another trip to Europe next spring.
Cheryll’s parents
enjoyed meeting and visiting their relatives.
They grew up speaking Finnish, and they clearly enjoyed dusting off
their language skills chatting with the cousins.
Finland is the most
American country I’ve visited in Europe.
To be honest, Finland looks so much like Michigan’s Upper Peninsula that
there is no reason to travel 5000 miles just to see the sights. The countryside is flat to rolling with
countless lakes and forests. We drove
2000 miles over eight days. Cheryll and
I played golf at a course on the Finland/Sweden border. On the third hole you tee off in Finland and
a well hit drive lands in Sweden. Both
Finland and Sweden have joined the European Union and the border posts are
abandoned. The Swedish one has been
converted to a souvenir shop.
If you’d like to
experience a trip to Finland without actually going there, I’ve prepared the
following guide:
The first step is to
stock up on plenty of coffee. The Finns
lead the world in coffee consumption, averaging nine cups per person per day,
and decaffeinated is not available anywhere.
You’ll also need baked goods, because the Finns enjoy their sweets. At one family gathering we were served no
fewer than ten different desserts. We
stopped at a McDonald’s at 7:00 PM and we were the only customers eating
hamburgers. Everyone else was eating
donuts or sundaes and, of course, drinking coffee.
The second element of
your Finnish experience is to keep quiet and observe. The Finns tend to be somewhat introverted. When they do talk, they rarely look you in
the eye. They don’t discuss anything
controversial or complicated. Sex,
religion and politics are definitely taboo.
Berry picking, fishing, or your favorite foods are the preferred
subjects. It’s important to agree with
the speaker with a “Yo” frequently. At
one dinner conversation I counted 103 “Yo’s” in a five-minute period; an
average of more than one every three seconds.
The wardrobe for your
Finnish experience is flexible as long as you wear nylon athletic pants. The Finns may not say much, but they sure do
“swoosh” when they walk. In a field
fifty miles from the nearest town, we saw thousands of scarecrows crowded
together in a variety of outfits. There
was a small sign that this work was entitled “Quiet People” with the artist’s
name. Hmmm…..
You’ll want to take a
shower Finnish style. Finnish showers
are generally uncurtained corners of the bathroom that don’t have barriers to
contain the water. Everything in the
entire bathroom gets splattered. The
drain may be under the sink. Shower
curtains are rare, but you’re usually provided with a squeegee to clean up the
floor when you finish. Finnish housekeepers
are meticulous and the houses and hotels we visited were spotless.
To completely
experience Finland, tall people (over 5’ 6”) will want to bump their heads on
something. The Finns tend to be short
and their doors are, too.
Your pseudo-Finnish
experience in the U.P. should include a stop in Christmas, Michigan to see
Santa. The real Santa maintains a
summer office in Rovaniemi, north of the Arctic Circle. I had carefully rehearsed an authentic
Arctic Circle crossing ceremony, but Cheryll accused me of making it up on the
fly. Speaking of the Arctic Circle, it
doesn’t get dark in Finland during June, so you’ll want to sleep with the
lights on. You’ll feel like a true Finn
when you can sleep under bright lights after downing nine cups of coffee and
four desserts. In northern Finland,
reindeer graze freely. If your bleary,
sleepless eyes squint just so, maybe you can imagine that the cows in the UP
have antlers. There were patches of
snow on the ground in the northern sections, so if you visit the UP in March,
flip your calendar ahead and pretend that it’s June.
A crucial cultural
experience that you won’t want to miss is the Finnish coffee ceremony. The preparation can take days. Everybody dresses in their finest clothes
(this is the only exception to the nylon pants rule). The table is carefully set.
Each place is set with a dessert plate topped by a saucer, a tiny cup
(even the smallest Finn won’t be able to get their finger through the loop), a
very small spoon, and a carefully folded napkin which has been selected to
provide absolutely no absorbent capability.
The making of the coffee is a strange and mysterious process. As a non-Finn, all the secrets were not
shared with me, but I can tell you that the coffee making process involves
pouring the liquid back and forth between several pots over a considerable
period of time. Several desserts are
carefully arranged in the center of the table and the guests crowd around. The
children are well behaved, and the table manners are impeccable. Remember, no controversial or complicated
topics of conversation and don’t forget to use plenty of “Yo’s”.
The Finns are some of
the warmest, most generous people I’ve ever met. We were made to feel very welcome, and they couldn’t do enough
for us. Tipping is not expected anywhere.
We were never asked for a credit card until we were ready to check out
of each hotel. The Finns are peace loving, quiet, polite, meticulous
followers. They work hard in a
difficult environment, and the craftsmanship is uniformly excellent. The world could use more Finns.